Rocamadour, built against a cliff, is the second-largest pilgrimage site in France after Lourdes. It is on the road to Compostella. Once upon a time, prison sentences could be circumvented by going to Rocamadour on pilgrimage with a ball and chain shackled around an ankle. The many steps up to the shrine, now a pleasant climb surrounded by dozens of shops and restaurants, had to be taken on the knees.